Tips for little Piggy Owners

I would like to talk about litter box training.

Teacup pigs are not cats so the litter box training is (really) training but you are the one that will get trained. Cats will go in anything where they can bury there waste that’s natural. Their instinct is to cover it up. I have always laughed when I see ads for kittens that are litter box trained. All they need to know is where the box is.

Pigs on the other hand if given the chance would rather go outside and that is natural for them. So it does require some training. The first thing to know is not to use cat litter. Pigs have a tendency to taste things. Cat litter is clay base and will stop them up. The best thing to use is pure pine pellets. These can be bought at a feed store or some place that sells bedding for horse stalls. If that is not available then pine shavings will work. Don’t use something with a deodorizer in it. That could make your piggy sick. You won’t need it anyway because pig waste does not have as strong of an order as cat waste.http://lakalasminipigs.com/educating-yourself-before-hand/ is a good post to read about educating yourself before hand when getting pig.

When you get a piggy from Ms Joyce she starts them off in a playpen with a litter box in it. Hopefully when you get yours you will start with a playpen also (refer to my first article). The next step is a small room like a bath room. A room with no carpet is best in case of an accident. Put it close to the door because they will stand there the most at first so they can see what’s going on in the rest of the house. If the piggy uses it there then move it gradually to a corner out of the way. If you move it and they go where it was at first then put it back for a day or two more(be patience). If the piggy goes some place other than the box then pick up the poop and put it in the box and place the box where the piggy has gone. It also would be a good idea to soak up some urine on a paper towel and put it in the box. You can also rub it on the inside of the box the more scent in the box the better. Pigs have a sensitive nose and the order in the box is important. Unlike cats little pigs will tell you where they want there box. It will usually be in a corner or in the most private place in the room outside they like to go in the bushes. Maybe they are just shy. You may have to move it a few times to get it where they want it. The older they get the less picky they will be. To clean up an accident you have to be sure to remove the odor or they will get confused. Water and white vinegar, or a very little bit of bleach mixed with water works well. If you have something for pet odors you may use that also.

Tips for little Piggy Owners

When you are ready to let your piggy use the whole house you will have to find out where to put the box again. I suggest leaving the box in the room you started in and put another in the room where you and the little piggy will be the most. Because you are starting with no odor in the box use a little of the soiled litter from the first box. Just like the first time you may have to move the box a time or two (be patience). If your house is really big you may need more than two at first. After a while you will be able to cut back to one. Remember this is training and every piggy is different.

You don’t need to dump the whole thing every time. Just scoop out the soiled and replace with a little fresh litter. Until they are consistent with going in the box put a little of the soiled litter back in the box so the scent stays there when you dump the whole thing.

The best thing is to start house breaking your little piggy early. They won’t be able to hold it for very long at a time until they are six months old or older. This will vary with the pig. At first take them out every hour or so. After meals and knaps is a must don’t get impatience they are babies. When you take them outside they will pick a place they like and will want to go there every time. Be sure to use the same term all the time for this feat. I use (go potty). When they are finished make a big deal out of it with a lot of good boy or good girl. You may use treats if you want. But be warned they are very smart and may learn to fake it just to get the treat. If you use the same term all the time then when you go to visit and want to curb them before going inside they will know what you want Bushes, flower beds or some place private is what they will like best. If their head is hidden they think no one can see them. Kind of funny. Remember be responsible and pick up the waste. In other words don’t be a pig be neat.

At night I suggest to put them in a small place or room with a litter box, a bed and a blanket. This takes care of two potential problems .Accidents in the house, and the piggy will learn to sleep through the night. Never give a treat during the night unless you want to get up and give a treat at the same time every night. They don’t need a watch and can tell time on the money. Next we will talk about leash training.

Teacup Pot bellied Pigs Make Fascinating Pets

Years ago, when the potbellied pig craze started, they called them “miniature” pigs. Most people didn’t realize that these alternative pets may actually grow to about 250 lbs. People were surrendering potbellied pigs to humane societies left and right. Shelters didn’t know what to do with them and some rescues popped up around the country to help with the overpopulation.

Now, there are a bunch of smaller pigs that are being bred as pets. They don’t seem to have any hereditary issues like some animals that are inbred to create size, color or pattern morphs. And who can resist that little rubbery nose?

These miniature pigs are a nice alternative to the regular potbellied pig. Be warned however, you must be zoned appropriately to own a pet of this kind. You will pay a lot more for these tiny piglets. And, you will have to locate a vet in your area who can deal with your new pet.

Joyce T. Wells, of Angel Enterprise Farm says, “…take a yardstick and place it on the floor by your leg. Then look where 14″ and 14.5″ is on the yardstick. This is the estimated height of these piglets at maturity. Their weight, if healthy and lean, should be around 35 lbs.”

Training is Not Difficult

Teacup potbellied pigs are smart and can be trained like a dog. As with dogs, non-aversive training is recommended. Your piglet can learn to walk with a harness and use a litter box like a cat. Pigs are clean. Most people know that pigs are not dirty animals, but it bears repeating.

Pigs don’t shed like a dog or cat, so there is less hair to clean up around the house. Pot bellied pigs don’t really have “fur,” it is actually hair. But, like a dog or cat, they will blow their coat (lose a lot of hair) a couple times a year.

Teacup pot bellied pigs do not bark, but they do make squealing noises. You will need to learn how to interpret the sounds to understand the animal. As they grow, they need exercise so they do not become overweight — a problem with any pampered pet.read more about training by clicking here

Teacup Pot bellied Pigs Make Fascinating Pets

Porcine Diet

Pigs do not eat dog or cat food. They need a specific pig diet that is a combination of grains, vegetables and a small amount of fruit. Snacks or treats can be given. Natural cereals, plain popped popcorn or crackers that are unsalted are recommended.

Wells says, “I feed my pigs a low protein stock, trying to stay below 10-12%… House piggies get veggies, cantaloupe and other healthy snacks.”

They are omnivores and will eat almost anything, but that doesn’t mean you should give them table scraps or other foods that are not good for them. If you offer them food, they will eat it. They do not have the ability to stop themselves from overeating – thus the phrase “eat like a pig!” An overweight pig is an unhealthy pig, so try to use praise and play as rewards instead of food.

A Happy Pig is a Healthy Pig

A nice soft place to sleep is mandatory for a teacup pot bellied pig. A little dog or cat bed, with a soft blanket on top will give your pig a nice place to snuggle for the night. These pigs do not like temperatures under 50, so you need to make sure that you keep them dry and warm.

Pot bellied pigs do have some health issues. Their body temperature should never go above 101. They can get a parasite called mange mites, which will cause their skin to turn red and dry. Vitamin E supplements will help with dry skin issues. They commonly get internal parasites, so worming about twice a year is a good policy.

Some people don’t want the traditional dog or cat pet. A teacup potbellied pig is a nice and interesting alternative. You are certain to turn heads when walking down the street with your harnessed pig! They are affectionate and active. And please, don’t forget the belly rubs!

Educating Yourself Before hand

When looking to purchase a miniature potbelly pig, many are informed of horror stories from others such as “I bought a miniature potbelly pig last year and he is now over 100 pounds when he wasn’t supposed to reach over 30!”

In most of these cases, the pig was an actual miniature but due to poor education on the breeder’s part, the new owner was unaware of the proper diet and feeding restrictions. Diet is the most important component of a mini pig’s health but without it, he or she will not stay so “mini”. It is my ulitmate goal to educate all of my customers on the proper handling and diet of their new addition in order to ensure the piglet lives a healthy and full life! When you purchase a piglet from me, you receive a care manual that I put together when I first started breeding. This manual is very detailed in: diet, behaivior, nuetering/spaying, housing, and training ect.

Educating Yourself Before hand

I also recommend for people to do some research on their own as well to ensure they are well-rounded in all the divisions of the care and diet of miniature potbellies. The piglets from my litters are estimated to weigh around or under 40 pounds but please know that no one can guarantee this weight. Each piglet has its own genes that tell its body what to do. With that being said, their weight should NOT stray far from their parents size. A comfortable and healthy weight should look as so: no neck fat, belly not touching floor, and just a slight curve in back. However, butt bone, spinal cord and ribs should NOT be visible! My breeder, Susan, is in the picture above. As you can see, she is a perfect example for a healthy weight giving her size. Her belly is above her knees, slight curve to the back with meat still on bones and a clean jowl (neck).

I understand there is a lot of questioning about miniature pigs in general and their mature size. As your potential breeder, I feel that it is my responsibility to educate you with only the truth about your new pet. I constantly post updated photos of my breeders who are beyond their mature age thus, their size being mature as well. If anyone has any questions or concerns, all of my breeders are on site and anyone is more than welcome to come and meet them up-close and personal. That includes petting and feeding them treats. All of my pigs are very docile, friendly and love attention. I want my potential clients to be 100% positive on their decision and in my opinion, hands-on contact is the best decision maker